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Wade

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Wade last won the day on May 8

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  • Birthday 10/10/1957

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  1. Hi Mike Yes, drilling holes in it would work, however the tray seems quite deep and you really need to raise the bottom of it a little further away from the inlet pipe to give the hot smoke a chance to spread. A flat perforated sheet/mesh at the height of the top of the tray would be better. It can be standard steel - it does not have to be stainless. A local steel fabricator would probably have something this size as an off-cut. Galvanised is fine for anything that is underneath the food. There is a lot of urban myth spread about not using galvanised in smokers **. The only restriction is that it should not come into direct contact with the food or juices/liquids from it should not be able to drip back onto the food. ** The only advice the EU/UK and USA food safety authorities give about using galvanised surfaces with food is not to allow the food (or juices from the galvanised surfaces) to come in direct contact. The only comments that warn that galvanised surfaces should not be used anywhere in smokers come from people posting quoting from other people posting - chinese whispers. There can be a problem from the inhalation of zinc vapour when welding zinc/galvanised metals - however this is only are at temperatures over 800 C. I think you would have bigger problems to worry about if your smoker reached anywhere close to these temperatures !! So long as the probe tips are inside the smoking chamber then any thermometer would work. Digital would be more accurate (and they are not expensive) however standard bi-metal rotary thermometers with long probes will give you a good indication of inside temperatures. Yes. The valves usually have a female connecter both ends so the existing pipe can be cut and the valve slotted in. The chimney valve should ideally not be galvanised as there will be some condensation dripping down from it. I would use a vitreous enamel coated valve here. If it has set then leave it but if it is still soft then try to remove it. In future use high temperature silicone sealant (available online or from stove shops). If it is exposed inside the smoker then just ensure that amy moisture cannot drip from it onto the food. There are plenty of silicone sealants available but here is an example. Just make sure that they are usable up to ~200 C https://www.cateringhardwaredirect.co.uk/products/silicone-sealant?variant=30892467028029 If you use a galvanised valve in the chimney or are worried about drips from the gutter sealant then fix a small removable tray directly underneath the flue hole. Cheers Wade
  2. Wade

    Newbie

    Hi Andrea and welcome to the forum
  3. Hi Mike and welcome to the forum. You have built a great looking smoker there and is a classic old smokehouse design. This type of smokehouse was originally used primarily for cold smoking, using the warm smoke as a preservative and to dehydrate, however these were later adjusted for hot smoking when people realised that most meats needed to be cooked for safety. Your design is ideal for "cold" smoking as you have the long tube between your fire pit and your smoke chamber to help disperse the unwanted heat. This may work against you though when trying to "hot" smoke - but that can be overcome. Some design tweaks that I would suggest to help when hot smoking. As has been mentioned above, get yourself a twin probe digital thermometer and drill a couple of small holes through one of the side walls (1/3 and 2/3 of the way up) so that you can push the tips of thermometer probes through and know what is going on inside. It isnt clear from your photo whether the bottom "tray" is a drip tray or a heat deflector. Maybe you are thinking of using it as both. Having this so close to the heat input, if it is solid you will be deflecting most of your heat to the sides as soon as it enters the chamber. This will likely result in the the heat mainly flowing up against the side walls and then out of the flue, resulting in the wood getting hotter than it needs to be and creating a cooler zone in the middle of the chamber - where you are trying to hot smoke the food. I would suggest replacing the bottom tray with a sheet of perforated metal (or a coarse mesh) with a small round plate immediately above the intake. This will act as a baffle plate and spread the heat more evenly across the bottom of the smoke chamber and help avoid internal hot/cool spots. If you want to add a drip tray then make it thinner and smaller and place it on the bottom shelf - or the shelf immediately below the food that is cooking. A large foil cooking tray would be ideal for this. Alternatively place the food on a cake cooling rack that is resting over a roasting pan. To help too much heat from being lost through the connecting pipe make sure that it is sheltered from any wind and also have some insulation to wrap around/over it. Pipe lagging would work and so would a couple of cheap fire blankets (~£6 each) loosely wrapped around the connecting pipe. You seem to be using standard 4 inch (110mm) flue pipe. In addition to using the air intake on the stove, you can also use a standard in-line butterfly valve to give you finer control of the temperature. You could also add one into the top flue to manage the air flow through the smoke chamber. I hope this helps and we are looking forward to seeing it in action Wade
  4. Hi Dave and Welcome to the forum. Yes I have also eaten some great BBQ in Texas over the years and drank many Margaritas in Texas too. It amazes me that pubs over here have not caught on to having a Margarita slush machine behind the bar in summer. Maybe they have but I just haven't visited them yet 🍹 🍸 It is a great idea to do large smokes and then freeze. You can certainly smoke a LOT of meat in two large WSMs. What do you usually cook and what type of vac packer do you use. Cheers Wade
  5. Restricting the air flow to the smoke generator is a delicate balance and I have found that it isn't generally necessary. If you try to restruct the air to extend the burn then it is much more likely that the burn will go out before it is complete - especially as the air cools overnight. Providing a charge of dust/pellets lasts for at least 8 hours then that will be sufficient to get you through the night. You can then reload it in the morning if necessary.
  6. They come in different sizes so make sure you order the large ones.
  7. Sorry guys but I will not be able to make this one 😞
  8. The Skoo arrived yesterday and it looks to be a very reasonable tube smoke generator. It comes with a cleaning brush and a hook to pick it up with when it is hot. Its size is almost identical to the A-maze-n 12" tube smokers It also holds the same weight of pellets as the 12" A-maze-n tube smoker so I would expect it to produce smoke for the same amount of time under identical conditions One advantage it does have over the A-maze-n is that it it is hexagonal and so will be less prone to roll in the smoker/grill For £16 it looks to be good value - significantly less than the A-maze-n pellet tube smokers which currently start at ~£20 plus shipping.
  9. Hi Mark and welcome to the forum. The combination of a grill and a smoker will give you what you need to feed family and friends
  10. I can get 6 x 10Kg bags of pellets in each box - 4 standing upright and 2 laying flat on the top They also stack well. Excuse the project wood laying on the top - that will soon be turned into garden planters for SWMBO
  11. Yes it has a bottom with holes in it. On the first picture you can see them either side of the tube smoke generator. In the third picture they are obscured by the water pan which is sitting on a couple of bricks inside the incinerator. The water pan is only needed if the smoke chamber is getting too warm - not usually a problem this time of year. The maze/spiral smoker creates less heat than the tube smoker so it will be fine inside the incinerator. Depending on the type of incinerator it could have holes at the top and down the sides too. Look at the different types and look for ones with holes near the top that are in a good position to push canes through. Any down the side cover with tape. I use the self adhesive aluminium tape as it is heat resistant and weatherproof. https://www.diy.com/departments/diall-silver-repair-tape-l-50m-w-75mm/1714141_BQ.prd
  12. You will almost certainly have the mark 3 (the latest). The way to tell is by looking at the fire basket- if it has wire rods as its base it is a mark 3. If it is pressed steel with punched holes then it will be a mark 1 or 2. The redesign of the fire basket was one of the main design changes for the mark 3.
  13. I use these from B&Q. The pellets stay outside in them all year round and the pellets are fine. Keep the pellets in their plastic bags in the boxes and wrap down the necks of the bags if they have been opened. Weatherproof, stackable and only £16.50 each https://www.diy.com/departments/form-skyda-heavy-duty-black-149l-plastic-nestable-storage-trunk/3663602763505_BQ.prd
  14. I think that during one of the forum software updates they changed the way that the photos were stored. I am sorry that some of the old photos are no longer available but it is something that is out of our control. If you have any in particular you are interested in then we can try to upload them again (or similar). Or we can restart a new thread.
  15. You will almost certainly have the mark 3 - as the mark 2 has not been imported for at least the last 2 years. The easiest way to check is with the fire basket. If the fire basket has a thick wire/rod bottom then it is a mark 3. The marks 1 and 2 had a pressed steel fire basket with punched holes in the bottom.
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